Cambodia: Phenom Phen, Siem Reap and Crossing the Border

Phenom Phen Central Market

As I arrived in Phenom Phen I was apprehensive.  I had to fill out three mini forms on the airplane ride from Bangkok: Customs, Arrival form, and Visa application.  The poor woman next to me spoke minimal English and all the forms were only in Khmer and English.  Together with miming and looking at my forms we managed to fill out our forms.  Not that they really looked at it.  They took my Visa application and my passport and waved me to another line.  I was apprehensive but went to the other line.. which was really just a crowd waiting for their passport with the visa.  So we waited and they would call out your name.  Or attempt to call out the foreign names you would walk up, give them $20 and they would return your passport.  I believe my name was pronounced Patricka.  So I grabbed my passport and walked through customs.  I was supposed to scan my fingerprints.. but they didn't make me.  So I walked out.  I had cleverly arranged to have a pick up from the airport.  The capital city of Phenom Phen has a problem of Tuk-tuk drivers who don't actually know the city.  Get lost and over charge you.  So a woman was waiting with a sign that said my name.  I pointed at myself and we set off.  She walked me and her sweet little daughter purposefully through the parking lot and to the tuk-tuk drivers outside.  After yelling at one for a while we got in.  The guy kept talking to her, asking for directions.  We kept making eye contact and smiling.  Honestly for a capital city I was impressed with how small it was and how untouristy it was.  At least the areas I stayed.  It was pretty much small shanty things mixed with some old buildings.  The Central market was quite nice.  The food at the night market was all fried, all delicious and all cheap.  I met some nice people and we agreed to go to the Killing fields the next day.  Gang and his friends were to join us.. but woke up too late!

Women age 18-24 killed at the killing fields

Words cannot describe what a somber day I had!  We visited S21, a prison where they tortured "spies", forcing them to confess.  The S21 prison used to be a school.  They left the barbed wire up on one of the buildings.  It was so quiet, every once in a while you would hear people talking but they would quickly be hushed by the atmosphere.  I ran into Matthew here and was grateful for the hug.  My sunglasses hiding the tears welling up.  If I thought that was bad then we went to the Killing Fields.  This place was such a nice quiet field with a tower in the middle.  The tower is full of people they removed from mass graves.  IT is built to so people will never forget.  As you walk the audio guide details bits and pieces of the horrors suffered by the people there.  Whole families were executed down to the babies.  But the executioners didn't want to waste bullets so they used whatever was handing.  Palm fronds to cut throats, machetes, hammers.  The babies they just beat to death against a tree.  It was a somber day, if not for David, Helen and Malta I don't think I would have made it.  These three people made me able to suffer the pain of the killing fields.  And arise from the flames a phoenix guarded by the knowledge that this shit happens.

Siem Reap was my next stop.  An easy 6 hour bus ride to a swanky built up town.  The famous Wats have built up this town.  It is nicer than the capitol (in my opinion).  But leave the city and you see poverty.  Everywhere.  The next morning I biked to Angkor Wat for Sunrise.  We left at 4:30am.  The bike ride was wonderful, but sneaking into Angkor Wat before the sun had finished rising was brilliant. We were the only people there.  It was fantastic,  but after a while the temples start to look the same.  "Same Same but Different"  as they say.  I took a break to depress myself still further by learning about the landmines in Cambodia.  That was a sobering moment.  I bought a $10 thing of soap to give some money to the cause.  I think I want to learn more about Cambodia and see what I can do to make a difference.  Siem Reap was awesome because I ran into so many world teachers.  Through out my 3 days there I met: Geoff, Lisa Shen, Emily, Nora, Andy, Laura, Joo-ik, and Garrick.  It was awesome!

Then came (hands down) my least favorite part.  The bus ride from Siem Reap to Bangkok.  We started an hour late from Siem Reap.  And bused with two breaks to the border.  Then they gave us all stickers and we walked to Departures.  Stood in a long line in the hot sun, telling people we did not want them to carry our suitcases.  Then we showed them our departure card, had them take our fingerprints, they stamped my passport and sent me to the next line.  I hike with others from our bus to yet another long line.  Where we filled out an arrival card and waited in line to have someone stamp our passport again.  The whole process took about 2 and half hours.  Then we walked out and the Thai side of our bus company took those of us who were headed to Bangkok, gave us new stickers and loaded us (standing) in the back of a truck with railings.  We were taken to a "bus stop"  Where many vans were waiting.  You had to sorta push your way in.   There were 13 people, 1 driver and all our luggage.  Then we drove at breakneck speeds, passing (recklessly) to Bangkok.  To get caught in the biggest traffic jam ever!!  But finally we made it to Bangkok.  Tonight I leave by train for Laos.  I hope the border isn't terrible.

Thailand

Me at Maya Beach

Well here I am in Bangkok, wrapping up my adventures in Thailand.  Little did I know when I made the plans originally that I would be extending my trip and continuing on to Cambodia!  I have caught the traveling bug and am ready to try traveling with minimal planning.  I have a ticket to the capital Phenom Phen (Sp?) and a hostel for two days.  That is it!  We will see what happens.

I feel as though I need to explain the last two blog posts.  Chiang Mai was the best leg of my trip, followed closely by Khao Yai National Park!  Chiang Mai was touristy but not overally, the food was cheap the trips were fairly economical.  The people were ridiculously helpful.  And the temples everywhere were gorgeous and a pleasure to see.  Just walking around town enjoying the temples was a joy, drinking a thai ice tea.  Feeling the sunshine, smelling the perfume of exotic flowers.  Most of the tourists were families, like little babies in strollers.  All speaking different languages.  Lots of college age students, but they were so busy doing zip line trips and elephant riding that drinking to excess was not on the menu.  The mountains around Chiang Mai were beautiful, they were tall but not too tall and the crowning glory of Doi Suteph was worth the Motorbike ride.

Pak Chong, the small city I stayed near while I went to Khao Yai national park was cute.  Not touristy at all, the only other foreigners I saw were at the train station.  Walking around the market I was struck by similarities to China.  Flattened pig faces on display and strange fruits I don't know the English name for.  The internet cafe was amazing, you paid by some sorta scale in thai.  All I know is I was online for about an hour researching Cambodia and I only paid 15 baht!  The Greenleaf guest house was nice, my own room and bathroom (no hot water) for 200 baht a night.  They had a very good restaurant there so I basically ate my weight in curry.  They knew how to make it spicy without killing me!  The tours were fantastic, Deow our tour guide for the full day in the park was hilarious.  I can still see him in my mind picking up giant turquoise scorpions and talking about Gibbons shitting on people.  Also hanging on the back of the truck looking up for Gibbons and Hornbills.  Jack our tour guide for the half day was informative and amusing in his own way.  He told us so much about the bats in the area and took us swimming in a fresh water spring!  It was worth it!  And a truly enjoyable part of my trip.

Phuket... words cannot describe.  Such natural beauty ruined by extreme tourism.  Tons of Eastern Europeans, whose culture clashes with mine.  Making them seem extremely rude!!  The pristine beaches are covered in umbrellas and chairs.  That you can rent for 100-200baht.  But the sand is white, the water is blue and warm.  Words cannot describe.  I decided to take a tour group and do a beach tour.  When I arrived at the dock swarming with tons of white people speaking different languages, I knew this was going to be painful.  And Oh it was.  The first beach we went to you had to pay for the bathroom, pay for the chairs.  There was a small area roped off for snorkeling but people had bought bread and were feeding the fish.  There were two white guys carrying monkeys and an exotic bird, offering them to people and a picture of them holding a monkey that was probably illegally poached.  That made me feel a bit sick.  I managed to see some fish and get away from the crowds but my mood was extremely irritated.  Our tour guide was a lady boy, whether he was a just a lady boy for the tourists or was really a lady boy I have no idea.  But he was nice, hungover and spoke with such a thick accent it was hard to understand.  Then we went to a beach with monkeys, no feeding no touching.  But everyone was feeding them and touching them.  The monkeys were bold as brass and were stealing things.  Then lunch, a disgusting buffet but free disgusting bathroom included.  Back on the boat, feelings of bile and anger rising.  Then we stopped in a cove and were allowed to jump off the boat and snorkel around.  That part I loved, I saw parrot fish, small fish, big fish, blue clams, blue sea stars.  It was paradise.  Finally we went to Maya beach where "The beach" and several other movies were filmed.  IT was over crowded but didn't have chairs.  Thank god.  Then back.  I was angry but slightly soothed by the wonderful snorkeling.  Then the best thing ever happened during my trip to Phuket.  Chacey met up with me and we rode around on a motorbike, we sat and ate.  She kindly listened to my rant!

Now I am in Bangkok.  I wonder what it will be like today!

Things I like about Thailand, and things I don't...

I love the language!  How can a language sound this beautiful?!  If you are a woman you say "kah" at the end of everything to sound polite!  Thank you sounds like a little bird twittering "Korp kun kah" (if you are a girl).  I love saying hello, and now say it all the time "Sawa dii kah".  The flowing of the language is wonderful!  I love listening to people speak, it is fantastic.

I don't like that I don't speak it, and how much I am relying on English.  I feel so useless and have to stop myself from speaking in Chinese.

I love the food!  Spicy (sometimes like tonight too freaking spicy) but sweet, sour and other flavors all blended together.  The curries and the stir fry's.  Honestly I have loved everything I have had to eat.  Until I came to Phuket... it is too spicy almost like they are tired of Tourist (which I am sure they are) and are trying to chase me away by destroying the lining in my small intestines.

I don't love how they always give you ice.  You are supposed to avoid it.. but it is unavoidable.  Hopefully we fix that soon.  Also watching which water you drink, and never being able to fill up your water.

I love Chiang Mai, I want to live there.  At some point I will.  It is touristy but not too touristy!  The people are kind, and not jaded by over tourism.

I do not like Phuket.  Too touristy the people are bitter and tired of white people.  There are just too many foreigners.  I might change my mind after I see the islands.  But all the beaches have tons of people, tons of umbrellas and chairs.

I love the animals.  There are monkeys, elephants, gibbons, hornbills, and so much more.  They are all interesting and seeing them in the wild is impressive!

I don't like how the domestic animals are treated.  Here in Phuket birds are in tiny cages, and dogs are thin wandering around.  Elephants and monkeys are often brutally mistreated but tourists continue to enjoy the shows oblivious or not caring for the animals treatment.

I like meeting other interesting foreigners.  I have made so many friends in Chiang Mai.

I don't like meeting other irritating foreigners.  Especially how everyone always jokes about she-males.  Who cares.. if you aren't picking up prostitutes then it shouldn't bother you!

Guangzhou Dissapointment, Ups and Downs of Chiang Mai

Statue of the 5 goats Guangzhou, China

I have finally started my month long vacation for Chinese New Year.  My first stop was Guangzhou, China.   For those of you who don't know, Guangzhou is the 3rd largest city in mainland China.  It is a huge international city and for many years it was one of the big ports.  It is on the same river delta that Hong Kong and Macau are on.  It is a huge bustling surprisingly western Chinese city.  It is pretty clean, and there is a subway system that makes someone from a city like Changsha cry with envy.  So simple and easy to understand.  The first day I was there was heaven, it was warm but not too warm.  After the freezing cold of Changsha I was rocking a t-shirt.  I met up with Dave before his train and walked around, we got some noodles at a nearby stand and were shocked at the lack of Lajiao (spice).  Then I ran off to meet Alyssa and Jack.  We went to the large shopping center called "T-mall."  We grabbed some expensive, not very good, Dim sum.  Then went to the top to the arcade.  We didn't last very long.  After a last minute run to the passport shop to get pictures for Jack.  They ran off to catch their flight and I was on my own.
All of that good fun balanced out the beginning of my trip.  I lost my handwritten itinerary and broke my purse all in the first 3 hours of my trip.  Not a good start.  Well after that first day it got worse.  The weather took a turn for the worse and started to become extremely reminiscent of Changsha.  It poured and froze, I got food poisoning and spent a day in the hostel reading two of the four books I brought with me on vacation.  Needless to say when it was time to go to Thailand I felt like a broken woman and not at all like one who was on vacation.  I stayed optimistic and bounced my way to the airport, and took at 1:30am flight to
Thailand.  Instead of the 12 hour train ride to Chiang Mai, I blew off my ticket and treated me to an air plane ticket.  I arrived in Chiang Mai and started a much better trip.

I arrived at about 8pm at the Spicythai backpacker hostel, after the hostile greeting I recieved in Guangzhou I was worried.  But I was welcomed and patiently shown around.  People were just waking up and getting ready for many of the adventures that Chiang Mai has to offer.  I walked into my room, and couldn't help but be amazed how nice it was.  The beds are soft and the rooms are homey.  The owners are the type to invite you out to places and call the different trips and arrange for rides.  The other people here are like the extended family I never knew I had.  They are all different, all interesting, and all so kind.  I have never felt more like I belong.  Even now as I write this blog post I cannot imagine leaving Chiang Mai and this hostel.  Chiang Mai may not have a subway system, but its system of tuk tuks and red cabs is pretty darned useful.  The red cabs are trucks with seats in the back.  You flag the driver and tell him where you are going, if he is headed in that direction he will pick you up.  You zoom around the city in the back seat of a truck, and it stops to pick up other people going in the same direction.  It is 20 baht for anywhere in the downtown area.  Tuk tuks are motorcycle taxis with a seat bolted on the back that can fit 2-3 people.  You have to bargain with these guys and they drive like maniacs.  It is both thrilling and terrifying.  Cars here stay in their lanes, but motorbikes and Tuk tuks zoom all over!

A wat in Chiang Mai

But walking around this town I saw tons of Wats (temples), each different decked in gold and mirrors.  The beauty in each temple and the intricacy is just impressive.  People were so nice, the ice tea's were amazing.  When I arrived back my friend Gang was at the temple.  We have been eating our way through Chiang Mai ever since!

Ups:
Saturday:
Wat Walk (alone)
Met Gang
Saturday Market, Market snacks for dinner (spicy, salty and sweet)

Sunday:
Thai Cooking class.  We made a variety of dishes!  I made Pad Thai, Hot and Sour Chicken Soup, Panaag(sp?) Curry, Panaag Curry Paste, Mango and sticky rice and papaya salad.  Then we got to eat it all.  This was an all day affair that included a bike ride through the country side and stops at a farm to pick some of the ingredients!
Dinner that night was at the Sunday Night Market and included Koy Soy (a northern specialty). We also met up with a friend of a friend.  Ralph was very nice and showed us where the best food was.

Monday:
Wat Walk and the beginning of our dragon eating dragon contest
Lunch with Ralph
Rented a motorbike, drove up to Doi Suthep (a temple on the top of the mountain), climbed a bunch of stairs.
Bowling and street food with Noom (owner of the hostel) and other people.

Tuesday:
Elephants!
Fun evening with organic vegetable dinner, delicious cake at a place called iberry.  (odd to think that it has been 5 months since I have had decent chocolate cake)  Then Thai massage, pretty painful...

Downs then the ups that followed:
Tuesday: Camera got wet, stopped working...Today it started working again as I tried to demonstrate to the people in the camera store what wasn't working.

Lost a filling when I was flossing of all things.  Got it fixed this morning for 1,050 baht!  Felt legit and feels so much better now!!  Plus my red cab driver could speak a bit of English and we had a whole conversation in broken English.

For now that is my trip!  I leave tomorrow for Khao Yai National park!  I am having so much fun.  I might skip Chinese New Year and stay in SE Asia a bit longer!!

Christmas and New Years!

I want totalk about Christmas, even though it wasn't particularly amazing or astounding.  Nor was it very Chinese.  My school took us out to a wonderful dinner and a concert.  Mr. Gao (the vp) chose an amazing selection of food, and we ate until we were uncomfortably full.  Then Teresa, Michaela, Marilyne and myself were whisked away to a concert.  The concert was very nice, but honestly I was too busy fawning over the little darling sitting next to me.  He was afraid of him at first, when he finally noticed me.  But by the end he was tugging on my shiny dress and smiling at me.  Although he was less than pleased when I took his photo.  His grandmother had the greatest smile and the most patience.

This little guy was so quiet during the first half of the concert, traditional Chinese music.  The second half he started to get antsy wiggling around as opera singers were singing.  I was starting to get antsy to, I am not a huge opera fan.  Although the diva they had singing was amusing to watch.  Her first dress had her cleavage almost popping out.  The final number "Silent Night" was very sweet, and the little guy was kicking the seat in front of him.  The concert was lovely, after that I went to a party set up by Maureen and Roo.  PJ Pijiu. Drinking Pijiu (beer) in our PJs!  It was intensely amusing!!  I embarrassingly enough got tipsy off of the two Chinese beers I drank, probably because I had also had wine at dinner.  Then had an interesting conversation with a street vendor who made delicious fried rice.  The next evening was the White Elephant gift exchange.  Highlights were the butt harness to lift your butt and make it look bigger, the poop candle (that I found at a stationary store), two poop mugs and some sleeve covers.  Sleeve covers are a bizarrely Chinese concept but make sense.  When you are working and don't want to get your sleeves dirty you put covers over your sleeves.  Then the Chinese go and make them in strange bright colors that clash with whatever you are wearing.  We then went to roller skating, which was way more dangerous than I was prepared for.  The people roller skated like they drive, no lanes, no fast or slow and not braking very often if at all.  Maureen and I left when a fight broke out on stage.  As we walked through the throngs of people and I do mean throngs.  We were left musing at all the people wearing masks on Christmas Eve, and why Christmas Eve was the time to go out!  All in all Christmas was pretty good.  Including a miracle for my friend who got her wallet, passport and purse found and returned to her.  For a price... ah China...

New Years was a much more awesome story.  Teresa, Thomas, Marilyne and I all sang a song and danced in the New Years Eve Concert held on the 30th of December.  The other teachers went all out, they had costumes, fog machines and blaring music.  The evening was very fun, and Teresa got thrown up on, luckily after she changed out of her "Minority Costume."  These outfits we were lent were supposedly traditional "Minority" costumes.  I don't know which Chinese Minority wears leopard print cowboy hats... but Thomas rocked it.

We sang "Kangding Qingge" a famous song that everyone in China knows.  Thomas juggled fruit, and we did a little dance.  Everyone was cheering and clapping along.  It was a fantastic experience.  High on our success, Teresa changed her clothes and we went to KTV with some of Marilyne's French friends who live and work in Wuhan.  Which is the town where the French companies go for business.  We sang tons of songs and left around 2am.  All in all a great evening.

On the 31st, I went to Marilyne's house.  She had a small party, with a lot of wine.  Really good wine.  Some quiche and homemade Sangria!  There was English, French, Japanese and Chinese all being spoken simultaneously.  I left a bit before Midnight to meet some other WTers on BuXingJie (Walking Street).  We heralded in the New Year walking down BuXingJie looking at all the lanterns flying in the sky, and the sparklers people were waving around.  Every foreigner in Changsha was out, but the crowds were positively tiny compared to Christmas eve.  Some more drunken fried rice and then home to sleep.  Today I packed up for Thailand.  I leave tomorrow 1 week in Guangzhou and 2 weeks in Thailand!

Happy New Year!

Some of the lights in Martyrs Park, preparation for Chinese New Years!